Dancing Saddle

Two zero days of rest in Vincente Guerrero allowed me to catch up with the blog and run some errands and make some changes to the setup of the Poseidon and make a better packing set up. My first taste of glorious fish tacos, and visit Fass Bike store.

Fass bikes is a great bike store in Vincente Guerrero that everyone should visit as well as sign their map of Baja. My first taste of fish tacos and oh my goodness they are amazing.

The second leg of Baja begun after a few days rest in Vincente Guerrero with lots of tacos and coffee and Sol Mezcals Clamato Beer. It was a short day’s ride, partly on the Baja Divide and partly on Mexico 1. One of the pannier clips broke, so I had to find a hardware store to improvise a solution.

The first sign of the cactuses or cacti to come along this stretch of Baja. One of the plastic clips holding my pannier in place broke and I had to improvise a plan. Now I have replaced all of the clips with steel rings.

It was also a short day’s ride so that Pablo, Cesar and Jose could catch up to me and the four us camped out in Benito’s backyard in San Quintin. The next day I left before everyone else and again did a combination of on and off road again. It was not a fun day and ended up having to stay in a hotel in El Rosario as there was no obvious camping spots and the wind and picked up badly.

Welcome back Jose, Pablo, Cesar and Benito

The next days ride I was feeling very distracted and unsatisfied with how things were currently going. I couldn’t put my finger on it. I almost felt guilty that I wasn’t on the Baja Divide trail. I carried this feeling through out lunch until I camped that evening.

Beautiful yellow flowers blooming across the desert. One of the many memorials beside the road for people that have passed away.

Partially destroyed building near a police road block for vehicles travelling north. I guess no matter where you go there are always options for dancing.

While watching the sunset and enjoying my evening meal, I came to the realization that this is my journey and I get to chose my route and make it my journey. The next morning, I woke up with a spring in my step and a smile on my face. Today would be a day of beautiful nature both animal and plant.

Some of the beautiful flora and giant cacti I saw a long the road and while camping.

The human influence is never that far away.

My first encounter of the day was with what I believe to be a spiny lizard that was basking in the middle of the road. In contrast to the smaller lizards, that would scurry away, before I could stop to take a photo. My second encounter of the day was my first sighting of a rattlesnake. My friend said that it was a red diamond rattlesnake. After cycling passed it and seeing it curled up, I stopped a good distance from it and then slowly approached it to see when it would react to me. As soon as it did, I took a few photos and I was on my way. I did not need to go any nearer than that. My next encounter was unfortunately way less pleasant. While stopping to drink some water I go to stung by a swarm of bees. One on the arm, one on the leg and one behind the head.

A lizard basking in the road and my first encounter with a rattle snake in the desert. I am now a little more vigilant and stomp a lot more when setting up camp.

One of the more humorous vandalised road signs and some fruit given by a road side stranger.

I was still in great spirits and the rest of the day I was in the Valle de los Cirios, gaping at the giant cirios and the cardon cacti that decorated both sides of the road. Every bend and corner revealed more stunning scenery. I arrived in Catavina and camped behind Café la Enramada.

The scale and size of the valle de los cirios is almost impossible to show in photos. It was majestic.

Say hello to Bruce Wayne and the swelling from my lovely bee sting.

Cafe Enramada and its museum which played host to me that evening.

The next day I was finally on my way to Bahia de los Angeles and the Sea of Cortez. I was lucky to meet Anice and Jan, two fellow bike tourers on the way. The are also on a long journey, so hopefully we will bump into each other again. It was a hard windy ride to Bahia de los Angeles but I finally made it. It was a place of beautiful sunrises and sunsets and good food. Thankfully for this, cause for two days the wind blew nonstop and I decided to stay longer to wait it out.

Anice and Jan at the Mexico 1 and Mexico 12 intersection. Hiding from the wind in Bahia de los Angeles

I decided to get back on the Baja Divide trail. I was hoping to do the next stretch of the trail in two days, Unfortunately I severely misjudged how hard this section would be. The first day was the easiest of the four. I didn’t make the beach near San Rafael but I fell short. I did not mind cause my camp site was perfect. Wide open clear skies, no wind perfect sunset and moonrise. The next day was the hardest day of the journey so far. What I thought would only take 3 hours took eight hours. Long stretches of thick sand and pushing humbled me the longer the day went on. Thankfully for some kind strangers that gave me water I was finally able to make Rancho Escondido. They served up the best fish tacos I have ever had. Thank you, Oscar and his family, for helping this tired, exhausted vagabond.

The brutal desert roads that took hours to push and cross through. Rancho Escondido was my sancturary for the evevning.

Well rested and fully stocked with water and with a little nervousness and trepidation I set off for the next leg of the desert journey. It started rough again but I was less worried and learned to embrace the sand. But the desert was full of good Samaritans that provided water, oranges a hamburger and lots of conversation and encouragement. Soon after La Piedra Blanca the road became compact and I was flying along, only interrupted by the occasional standoff with cows. El Acros turned out to be a virtual ghost town. There were buildings and a few cars but didn’t see another person. I camped five kilometers outside of El Acros. It was a little close to the road and I saw a few more cars than expected.

The best hamburger I ever ate in the middle of the desert and the run down church in El Acros.

The next day was the last day of the desert journey. The first thirty kilometers was a straight line through the desert. Not much changed through this stretch. In the distanced I finally saw powerlines along Mexico one. When I started the last forty kilometer stretch to Vizcaino, I could feel the tiredness in my legs. Even though the road was flat and I had a strong tail wind it was still a struggle. The time in the desert had definitely taken its toll. I spoiled myself with a whole roast chicken and Strongbow Ciders.