Dancing Saddle

After the eventful if not always pleasant experience through the desert, I decided to go on road for a short while. I could definitely feel the tiredness in my legs and my general endurance. The day that I left the weather was a bit worse than expected. A huge cross wind from the west was pushing me into the traffic and there were a few rain clouds about. I decided to stop at a truck stop for a while as the wind was predicted to die down after an hour or so. Once I got started again, the wind had died down, but I got hit with a cloud burst. The first time it had rained while I was riding. Thankfully it was a short one and I was dry pretty quickly. Thankfully the road started to swing more east and the cross wind turned into a tail wind. Just before San Ignacio, there was a road block but I quickly got waved through. From what I can tell and from what I have heard, the police are not much bothered with cyclists.

Birria quesotacos with consomme are quickly turning into my new favourite dish. I came here twice for breakfast and both times I was blown away. The flat roads on the way to San Ignacio.

The La Casa del Ciclista as well as several other camp grounds were on the way into San Ignacio square. I decided to cycle to the square and have a look around and then cycle back, thinking that I would only be there for one evening. The square was beautiful and had an old Jesuit church at its one end. I enjoyed a coffee in the square and I got to watch a vaquero control his bucking horse. I found another camp ground that was right on the lagoon and thus decided to stay there for the night. The place was beautiful and the owner was an amazing host.

The Jesuit Church in the town square of San Ignacio which is the main attraction in the oasis. A vaquero controlling his bucking horse, which reminded me why I don’t like riding horses.

I decided to camp there for a few extra nights. The first reason was mental. I wanted to slow down for a bit, actually enjoy a place. Here I am in a literal desert oasis and wanted to switch off and experience it. The second reason was a little less pleasant. I had picked up a saddle sore that had become problematic. It was causing troubles while walking and I was worried it would become worse while cycling. Luckily, I was able to borrow some anti-bacterial cream from the family next door that had a toddler. For two days I was able to explore the town and town square as well as enjoy a lazy day by the lagoon reading my book and enjoying all the birds and the stunning night sky.

Taking a rest day by the San Ignacio lagoon while watching the sunset. The stunning night sky when there is no air or light pollution.

The next day I was able to continue my journey with not too much pain and a very welcome tail wind. Santa Rosalia turned out to be a town of contradictions. The outskirts of the town in the north was dominated by El Boleo, a copper, cobalt, manganese and zinc mine and the initially outskirts of the Santa Rosalia gave the impression of a town on its last legs. But the main downtown area was a pleasant and beautiful place of old mining town houses and buildings reminiscent of similar old towns I have seen in South Africa and Australia.

Some of the rundown landmarks that are a long the main coast road as you enter Santa Rosalia from the North that greets you just before the main square.

The sunset walk was beautiful and the tacos the following morning were amazing. If the police eat at a taco stand then you should most definitely eat there too.  It was another slow start to the day but it would only be a short ride, so I wasn’t too worried by it.

Santa Rosalia put on a beautiful show around sunset which turned out to be a busy and vibey little town. The priest and the guitarist were warming up their vocal cords

On the ride towards Mulege, I met my first bicycle tourer heading north. He was Daniel from Germany and had already explored Mexico from the South and had only about ten days before he had to leave Mexico. We had a pleasant chat and I was on my way. I was very grateful that I was going south and enjoying a wonderful tail wind. Mulege itself was a bit of a letdown. I only planned to stay one night and there wasn’t much going on, though it was pretty beautiful and it was also a bit of an Oasis. The lack of things to do there in the evenings was highlighted when I was woken up in the early hours of the morning by a couple having a very lovely time. It would be an understatement to say that I could hear everything.

These bus stops make a great place to rest up during the hottest part of the day. A little shade and snack for the afternoon portion of the ride. This little guy looked like the king of Mulege.

The next day I had my camping spot planned out. I wanted to camp on the beach on the southern end of Bahia Concepcion. The wind was at full blast again but thankfully mostly from the north. There were some stunning crystal-clear beaches with white sand and palapas dotted along the coast. I could see why this part of Baja is a haven for travelers, vanners and sailors alike.

One of the numerous beaches with palapas built for the travellers, of the road and of the sea. Trying the best to take a good Nomadic birthday picture but the sun and sweat made it hard to smile.

The wind continued to blow and the prediction was that it continues till six or seven o’clock. I arrived at my camping spot just after four. My spot was right on the beach just above the high tide mark and with a small lagoon behind. I had the whole length on the beach to myself. I only had to share it with a few horses, some cows, seagulls, frigates, cormorants, pelicans and as it turns out coyotes.

Some of the many horses to wander near my camp. Just a small part of the long beach that I had all to myself.

I put off setting up camp but changed into my camp clothes and collected some dry wood for a beach fire and then proceeded to watch the sea and the birds. Just before sunset the wind hadn’t died down and I pretty much gave up on my plans for the evening. Due to the strong wind and the soft beach sand I had to set up my tent using a large piece of drift wood and my bicycle. The wind stayed strong so I didn’t even have a chance to cook dinner but I had enough snacks for dinner. A new rule, always make sure I have snacks, incase this happens again.

The fire pit I built that I never got to use. I hope the next person gets to use it. My tent tied down to my bike while my chill spot waits ofr me in the background.

As I was preparing to had to bed and making sure that everything was tied down, I looked up. My mind was blown. Coming from the north was a rocket launch from Vandenburg Air Force Base. The rocket was streaking across the sky, its plume reflecting the sun hidden below the horizon. I had never seen a rocket launch before and power and spectacle was beyond what I imagine. I stood staring up across the sky at what I had just witnessed. I was hoping to see the burn back of the booster returning to earth but that was below the horizon. I went to bed totally with a big smile on my face. The wind buffeting my tent reminding me that even though I didn’t have the evening was planning, I still had a wonderful evening

The starlink launch from Vandenburg Air Force Base that blew my mind. What has become my favorite photo of the journey so far.

At around four am I woke up to no wind. I was able to roll back my tent flaps and watch the sky from my tent. I was even able to snap a photo of the night sky. I dozed off but woke up when the sun came up and the then low and behold, a coyote with a bird in his mouth trotted past me, less than ten meters away. I was so flabbergasted, I barely remembered to take a photo. A minute later another trotted by. This was the beach that kept on giving. I was even able to enjoy a coffee while watching the sun rise across the bay.

My second attempt at night photography. If you look carefully you can just see the coyote with the bird it caught in its mouth.

The first 15 kilometers was the hardest of the day with some hard climbs but nothing too bad. After a late brunch at Las Palmas restaurant. It was a gentle ride for the rest of the afternoon. I got to meet Peter. He was motorcycling through Baja but had ridden it by bike before and had done some bicycle touring, including cycling the 8000 km across Canada. That afternoon I arrived in Loreto, a beautiful little town on the Sea of Cortez. That evening, I had dinner with Rick and Ellen, an American couple I met in Bahia de los Angleses. This time I was able to spend some time with their beautiful rescue dog, Daisy.

The historical square of Loreto and some of the Lucha Libre masks for sale.

The next day was the solar eclipse. Although I couldn’t watch it directly it still put on quite a show.

The arcs of the solar eclipse through the tree leaves and a beautiful murial of Frida Kahlo.

Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de Loreto and some of the beautiful art work on display