Dancing Saddle

This is a separate story not directly following the timeline of my travels and I hope to do more of these as I continue. These will be less about my travels and more about something that has struct me about a place or observations that I have made as I have continue through Central America. This story will be about the kindness of the strangers that I have met as I have headed South. This will not only tell the story of our encounters but tell a little bit about their stories too. Some of these have been acts of kindness, not only of food or water or shelter but just the spiritual or emotional boost that they have unknowingly given me. I regret not taking more photos with them but its something I want to work on.

My first encounter was on my second day of riding in Mexico. I had just had a hard and exhausting climb past Cerro Neji and on the downhill I came across Pete’s Ranch. It wasn’t mentioned on the trail notes but there he was and his little café and four other cyclists. It was my first moment of trail magic. It was great to hear his story about his wife and how well his children were doing as adults. And how he had built this beautiful ranch.

At the same time, I met Pablo, Jose, Cesar and Oscar. Pablo was a huge source of information with regards to the Baja Divide and I am grateful for all his knowledge. Jose was a 73-year-old brave enough to give it a go on his old steel bike. Cesar and Oscar were so friendly and welcoming. We rode together a little that day and a little bit the next day as well.

A few days later I left the Baja Divide to go on Mexico One for a change of pace. My tired legs prevented me from going nearly as far as I thought I could and I ended up “stuck” on the highway with limited options for camping. After a failed attempt at camping, I luckily checked iOverlander and found Vinos Dubacano. Ivan and Luis let me camp out right there in the wine tasting courtyard and it was the first time in 6 days I had any form of running water. And the oranges I was told I could take were delicious. I ate them full on cave man style.

I took a few days rest in Vincente Guerreo and this allowed Pablo, Jose and Cesar to catch up to me. I was invited by them to stay at Benoto. A kind man that let us camp in his backyard. He was such a gracious host, warm and welcoming. Our language barrier made it hard to communicate but there was still lots of smiles and chatting.

I left before everyone else the next day, and after riding on the Baja Divide, I jumped off again to skip the sandy section. When I stopped for lunch, I met Pecho. A very warm and friendly cyclist from Tijuana. We exchanged numbers and have kept in touch ever since. I appreciate all the encouragement that he has given as well the numerous recommendations as I have progressed further south.

Before I arrived in Catavina, I heard about Café La Enramada. They are a very welcoming family that own a small restaurant and have a small museum attached to the café. They welcome travelers to camp in their back yard at no charge. Ian and Marco made me feel right at home. And we chatted a little and they even took some amazing photos of me while we watched the sunset. It was the first time for me to camp behind a café and I really appreciated their kindness and generosity.

For the next few days, I stayed on the highway as I didn’t feel comfortable doing this stretch on the Baja Divide. Twice I received random acts of kindness from strangers driving by. Once from two guys carrying lots of mountain bikes on the back and they gave me tons of water. And then the next day, I felt like a participant in the Tour de France where a car slowed down to match my speed and handed me an apple and a guava. And boy do I love guavas. It made my day.

At the intersection to Bahia de los Angeles. I met two fellow bike packers. Anice from France and Jan from Germany. They had just stopped to eat lunch and we ended up chatting for a bit. The store there was closed but we were able to scrounge up some water from some construction workers. After a bit of a chat about our gear and filming, Anice volunteered to film me with a drone as I cycled away towards the east and they headed south. The drone footage was stunning.

In Bahia de los Angeles, I got to spend an evening with Ross, Andy and Marvin. The four of us drank wine and beer and watched the stars and the moon rise over the Sea of Cortez. They were wonderful company and the feeling of slowing down and enjoying the places I got to see and experience was so rewarding.

The day before I left, I got to meet Rich, Ellen and their rescue dog, Daisy. They were my neighbors as we sheltered from the suddenly windy Sea of Cortez. Ellen said that I reminded her of her son, and I really appreciated their concern as well as encouragement for my journey. I was lucky enough to meet them again in Loreto where they bought me dinner and I got to spend some time with Daisy. Thank you so much for the encouragement and well wishes.

Two days later, was the time for the greatest kindness. I had severely underestimated how hard the next section of the Baja Divide was going to be. I estimated I should arrive at Rancho Escondido in about three hours in time for lunch and then I would fill up with water and continue on my way. Soon I was struggling through the thick sand and ended up pushing more than cycling. The frustration became palpable and soon I was concerned about my level of water. A convoy of pick-up trucks stopped and Robbie gave me two liters of water. This was a life safer and buoyed my spirits. But soon after that I was running low on water again and progress was still slow. Just in time, I bumped into Cheri and Jack. Again, they were kind enough to give me water and buoy my spirits. I have never more appreciated the kindness of strangers than I did that day. I eventually made it to Rancho Escondido after nearly eight hours of mostly pushing

The next day I met Enrique and Gerardo. They are off roaders and were so encouraging and positive about my journey. They gave my tired legs lots of energy. Because I left before them, I was even able to see them again and got an amazing video of me eating a burger in the middle of the desert. Thank you for the ongoing interest and concern and encouragement.

Just before this I got the greatest desert miracle. A random person stopped and filled up my water and then gave me oranges. And then a burger. I couldn’t believe it. It was such a random act of kindness and so unexpected. After taking a moment to try and process what happned, I ate half the burger right then and then the rest later. A few hours later. A family going on vacation to San Francisquito for easter gave me some more water and a banana.

A little after that I bumped into Marine and Jacques while finishing my burger. I had no space for any more water but just the conversation and chatting about travel and life was enough to give me a mental boost and was just what I needed for the rest of the day.

I met Peter just before arriving in Loreto. He is from Vancouver and was motorbiking back home. He did a U-turn to come chat with me. It turns out that he had done quite a bit of bike touring himself and had cycled a similar route to what I was doing now. He was very knowledge and insightful about how to bike pack. One very interesting point is that whenever someone stops to offer help, accept not just yourself but for them. It gives them a story too and you get to meet new and interesting people and learn something new. I have taken that to heart and now I always accept. Thank you.

Some of my favorite drivers are VW Kombi. They almost always wave or honk or give a thumbs up. And they just have the friendliest vibe and demeanor and a big smile. Martin was one of these drivers and pulled over to offer me water, which I gladly accepted. To all the truckdrivers that give me lots of space when passing I am most grateful. It is very easy to hear the giant vehicles approaching from behind and then you realize how much space they give you and makes you feel so much safer.  

To all the other people along the way, with random smiles or friendly waves or the encouragement when I am speaking my poor Spanish. You have made this leg of the journey truly special. Thank you