Dancing Saddle

To get to Mazatlan you need to take the overnight ferry from Lapaz. My restless night’s sleep was not as bad as it could have been as the seat next to me was open. The ferry arrived at 9 am and I headed into town to find a good cup of coffee and something to eat while waiting to check in. The contrast from Baja was profound. Everything was way more built up and almost no sand and dust. There were so many more cars and narrow lanes. It felt like a whole new country.

The overnight ferry leaving from Pichilingue, La Paz and arriving in Mazatlan. It felt like a whole new country, with a whole new rhythm.

While in Mazatlan I tried to hunt down the famous cliff divers. I found the diving tower and spent two hours waiting for something to happen. There was one guy wearing only shorts running back and forth up and down the tower. I waited in anticipation but nothing was happening and decided to grab some food. It was now dark and he was back at the top of the tower now holding up torches. Everyone was watching and waiting for the man to dive. With food in one hand and phone in the other, I tried to record the dive. But he kept stepping down and relighting the torches. With all the false starts my battery started to run out. He then ran down the tower again and I looked down to try and charge my phone and while I was looking down someone else jumped. That was a failed little adventure.

My first try of Salchipapas while waiting for the cliff diving. Unfortunately I dropped the top layer. The non diving diver holding up the torches.

I had only 2% battery on my phone. I quickly plotted my way back to the hotel as the route back was not obvious. On the way I stumbled upon a Lucha Libre fight. It was very entertaining and tongue in cheek. It was great to watch the tag team routine, the audience participation and the winking umpire. It was addictive entertainment and a good laugh. Eventually the one team won. I think …

My first experience of Lucha Libre and all its entertaining antics. THe stunning ornate interior of Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepcion.

The start of Trans Mexico Norte is a short little boat trip and then the ride begins. The first stretch is the least interesting road so far in Mexico. It felt like the outside of a crappy city and was not fun at all. Thankfully after the turn off to the Mexico 40 the scenery improved significantly and I started to enjoy myself more as I approached Concordia. Concordia turned out to be this beautiful little town and that evening was a children’s festival. It was a lively evening of floats, music, candy tossing and Raspados. Raspados are fruit flavored shaved ice and absolutely delicious.

The guava and mango raspados was delicious and enjoyed watching the childrens festival through the evening.

It was 250 kilometers to Durango and my next rest place but between Concordia and Durango was over 3000 meters of climbing. The first day was a real struggle as the climb was constant and unrelenting. The change in altitude quickly took affect and my pace slowed down significantly. There was a motorbike rally heading in the opposite direction and all day I heard the drone of engines up and down the valley. In the late afternoon I got to this tiny little town called La Mesa del Carrizal. I had intended to go a little further to camp but the tienda owner said I could camp in the community area. I set up camp with a view across the valley and the sun set shining on the mountains across the valley. Five or six horses trotting up and down the road made the start of the evening a little interesting.

My camping spot for the evening that the tienda owner said I could use. And the stunning sunset while I enjopyed dinner and watched the world go by.

Then next day was even harder. The additional altitude made it another day of only covering 37 kilometers. Near the beginning two dogs were viciously digging into the side of the cliff. I quietly went on by. I did not want to disturb them. Later on, I crossed the Tropic of Cancer and then a little later I passed 2000 meters. The next stretch was a real struggle and I was barely moving on the flat and the climbs. I arrived in El Palmito where there were still many motorcyclists from the recent rally. This town didn’t have much and I stayed in a cheap hotel. The water didn’t work and the local restaurant food was seriously lacking. I was exhausted and could feel the altitude whenever I walked and I had a bit of the shakes.

The tropic of cancer sign and El Pamito.

The next day’s ride was from El Palmito to La Ciudad. It was the hardest days riding so far but this was contrasted with some of the most stunning scenery I have seen so far. The deep valleys and towering mountains in the distance meant I stopped every ten minutes to gawk at the view. It really helped the view was so beautiful because my legs were turning to jelly and I was struggling to keep going. At one low point I came across a few of motorcyclists at a mirador. I was so grateful when they offered me a beer. I enjoyed the long break and a chat. My stop for the night was just outside La Ciudad is a Mexiquillo National Park where you can camp for free.

Just one of the many stunning valleys and mountains that I saw on the road that day. Daniel and his riding companions providing me with a very uplifting and needed beer.

The next day was an easy ride to El Salto surrounded by pine trees. I forgot that it was Cinco De Mayo so I was glad to be reminded when I saw the fiesta going on. I was having a great time trying chamoyada, watching the Voladores de Papantla at the top of their poles and the different fiesta games. Unfortunately, I lost interest when I saw a merry go around that had actual live ponies and I lost all interest and left. Please leave the animals out of it.

My first try of Chamoyada. I ended up using the straws as chopsticksto dig out the jelly babies. The Voladores de Papantla at the top of the pole playing music.

The last day to Durango was a near 100-kilometer ride with mostly descents and only one steep climb out of a deep valley. It was one of my favorite days of riding. I felt light and flew along the road. The wind pushing me along and gravity doing the majority of the work. Durango was the first big city for me during this journey. And a good chance for a couple of days rest and time to recharge, relax and restock with some new food options for camping during the next stretch.

Exploring centro Durango on my first evening in the city is a great change of pace.