Dancing Saddle

Summer was definitely here when I left Durango. It was already hot at 10 am when I left the city. I had made sure I was fully stocked with food and water. It would be a day of losing all that altitude I gained as I descended to San Franscico Del Mezquital. The wind was blasting onto my back and I could feel the extra heat all over my body. I also had my first uncomfortable encounter.  A couple of farmers were asking too many questions and mentioned money. There were some things lost in translation but I was glad when they were off.

The valley heading down towards San Francisco del Mezquital. The coat of arms of San Francisco del Mezquital in the town plaza.

As I checked into a cheap hotel the power went out across the whole town. There was no Wi-Fi, no signal, no lights. It was fun to see how everyone continued their lives as if phones never existed. Everyone had congregated in the town square. The adults chatting, the kids playing games. When it started to get dark, people started to improvise lights using cars and battery powered lamps. Dinner was street food and stalls. I had a few good laughs with the people I interacted with, despite the language gap.

With the power out there were not many food options but these ladies made a great burger and were friendly and humourous too. The only super mercado in town was one of the few places that had a generator and was able to keep the lights on.

That evening was very hot and I ended up alternating sleeping on the cool tile floor and sleeping on the bed. During the night the power came back on and I was able to charge all my electronics for the next couple of days.

The town square where everybody was hanging out on this hot evening. My bike fully loaded and ready for the big climb up the valley, even though I wasn’t.

The next day turned out to be my hardest day so far. I knew beforehand that there would be a lot of climbing but I had no clue it would be this much. The day started easy enough and I was feeling pretty good when I thought I had reached the peak. I started the downhill thinking the hard part of the day was done. Soon though the road started going uphill again and I could see where it peaked in the distance. I had to stop and rest cause my legs were spent. I ate some food, drank some liquids and removed the giant spider from under my bike wheel.

One of several large rock falls along the mountain road and many more smaller ones. This giant spider crawled under my tyre. I safely removed him, before accidently dropping him. Sorry buddy.

The second long slog uphill began. There were many rockfalls along the way to mark my progress. By the time I entered the village near the peak it was 4pm and I had, had enough. I found a tiny tienda and got myself a coke. The village had free Wi-Fi and while leaving a voice note I could hear the pure exhaustion in my voice. I just sat there too tired to even care where I would camp that night. Eventually I had enough energy to ask the store clerk where I could camp. The store clerk said I could camp where ever I wanted. There was a bit of confusion where to get water, so for the first time I got to use my water filter and thankfully it was so easy to use.

I couldnt believe how tiredly I looked and sounded while sat on the porch of the tienda. My delicious kimchi ramen breakfast at the back of the school.

Today would turn out to be one of my favorite days of riding. It started with a short gravel ride uphill and then a day of beautiful descents through pine trees and small scrubs and then finally back into desert and cactus. It was still a hard day’s riding but I was having a fun time and singing to myself again. That is always a good sign. I arrived in Suchil and was determined to find a good spot to hopefully see the Aurora Borealis. That would be a dream come true for me. And a life time highlight. Unfortunately, it didn’t happen but I got to relax by the pool.

The gravel road amongst the pine trees of the altiplano. This bee was full on loaded with nectar in the flower of this cactus.

The next day started on tarmac and again I was singing all day. If I remember correctly, it was Don’t Speak by No Doubt. I had a tail wind most of the way. The road then changed to single track up, over and round some railway tracks and between thorn bushes. It then turned into dirt road between farm lands. At the last little tienda, a kind man offered me a place to sleep the night but I wanted to get over the mountain and find a spot to wild camp. Even the climb up the mountain was lots of fun. When I got near the top and there were so many camping options it was impossible to decide. Before choosing a spot, I had to make sure I was out of sight from the gravel road.

This abandonned rail road track that I used to get out of the single track surrounded by thorn trees. The cobbled road amongst the gravel was a pleasant surprise.

I waited before setting up camp just to make sure I was out of sight. Only three cars came by and though I could see them, if you didn’t know where to look, you couldn’t see me. I set up camp in what was turning out to be my favorite spot. Sunset was stunning, the view of the mountain gorgeous, and the wind still. I set up my tent opening to face north. Just in case the Aurora Borealis decided to make a show of it. One car came by during the evening and I quickly turned off all my lights just in case. It was peace and quiet the rest of the night.

My favourite camping spot of the journey so far. There were even better spots further along the trail.

The next day was another beautiful day of riding. It started with the ride off the mountain on gravel. I ended up singing “Walking on sunshine.” The gravel finished after a long descent into another tiny village.  My hands were exhausted from all the breaking but my legs were fresh. The tarmac started and there was so little traffic, I could weave over the whole road. I got to an OXXO to stock up on water. The wind had swung round and wasn’t a tail wind anymore. When I go to the 23, I could either continue the way I was going or head North East to Fresnillo and have the wind push me along.

I told the lady at the tienda that this valley was so beautiful. It was actually stunning. I just didnt know the word for stunning.

I headed to Fresnillo and I regretted my decision once I got there. It was a rough city and it was a struggle to find cheap accommodation. After searching online and wondering around the city I found a place. The neighborhood itself was also not that great. My suspicions were confirmed when I had a cockroach crawl up my leg while showering. After chasing it off, I went to grab some dinner using my fast walk. I ate dinner at the accommodation and didn’t leave again until the next morning.

My rest spot for my lunch of coke and chips. I was actually dancing in the saddle along this road.

In the morning was the ride into Zacatecas and my next rest. I used Google maps to plot the route and it took me on a winding route to avoid the highway. I keep having to check my phone to stay on course but soon gave up and got on the highway. When I could I rode on the shoulder, otherwise I had to ride on the dirt track on the side of the highway. The wind was howling into my face and side. It was a rough ride and the dust wind and traffic were draining. In the future I am going to avoid the highway as much as possible. It wasn’t the hardest day of riding but it was definitely the least enjoyable. Once I got to Zacatecas, it was still a struggle as it was very hilly and the roads were a maze.

Highway 45 and the shoulder I was riding along. At this stage the wind was still mild. Zacatecas and the hill up to my accommodation. There was no riding up this.

Zacatecas itself is absolutely gorgeous with many beautiful historical buildings. I love the atmosphere here but at the same time I have picked up a cold. I have struggled with congestion for a while and it has turned into a full-blown cold. I have done less here than I wanted to do. Being sick also affects the mind and not being able to continue has been a bit of a mental struggle. I know from experience that any long-term travelling will have periods that can be not as enjoyable. It does not matter what you are doing or how amazing the place or the experience, you can still feel down and feel the need to escape from the journey and have some much-needed down time.

One of the many traditional dances that were on display that evening. The intricate front of Cathedral Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion de Zacatecas.

A few more days of rest should help with the cold and hopefully back in the saddle heading towards Guanajuato City where I will take my next break. Hopefully lots of stunning scenery along the way and as little highway as possible.

More music for the amazing atmosphere of this city and the colors of the Mexican flag projected at the Plaza de Armas.