Dancing Saddle

While I was planning and researching this part of the journey. I had absolutely no intention of going to Mexico City. The sheer size and scale of this giant metropolis was just too intimidating to cycle through. Unfortunately, Mexico City’s reputation as an unsafe city also played a role in this decision. It would be very hard to navigate and stopping and starting to check my phone would make it a long slow journey.

Coming into Mexico City was an experience. I am so glad that I took a bus instead of cycling in as it would have been a very difficult maze to navigate.

While in Toluca I decided that leaving my bicycle in Toluca and then bussing to Mexico City to at least give it a visit would be a good idea. So common sense prevailed and I grabbed a bus to Mexico City to spend one night there. I would get a chance to meet a great friend of mine from South Korea and I would be able to visit the Pyramid of the Sun that had been recommended a few times to me already.

Meeting up with my good friend from South Korea and finally getting to try queso fondido. It was blady delicious.

This would be my first time taking an intercity bus in Mexico. So even after nearly three months in Mexico, I was nervous using public transport. Of course, it was very easy and the trip was uneventful. When I got to the outskirts of Mexico City I was watching the road to see if I was correct in my assumption of not riding into the city. It was very hilly; the roads were narrow and rough. And it would not have been easily navigable.

Matching volcano stone bracelets. Getting our game night one with some penguins. Also I will never forget the word cactus.

I arrived in Camiante Terminal Poniente and it was the most crowded place I had been so far. I was able to grab a DiDi taxi to Condesa to check into my hostel and then went for dinner and drinks with my friend and her friend. Condessa, Roma Sur and Roma Norte is the beautiful central suburbs of Mexico City. It is the area where lots of foreigners live and comes with all the parks, pubs and restaurants that would be expected. We went a taco restaurant and I tried some new dishes including queso fondido which was blady delicious. The three of us then headed out for some drinks and boardgames.

Cable cars connecting the hilly neighbourhoods in the more dangerous neighbourhoods of northern CDMX

On our way back we were discussing how conservative Mexico City is relative to the rest of Mexico and the world in general. We discussed tattoos and how ubiquitous it was throughout Mexico even though in other regards Mexico felt very restrained. At that very moment a lady walked out of the atm wearing a short mini skirt and only nipple caps. It was a hilarious juxtaposition considering what we were discussing and what conclusions we had drawn.

Some of the traditional artwork that has been preserved throughout the complex. Standing in front of one of the smaller pyramids in the complex.

The next morning, I woke up early to join a tour to go visit Teotihuacan or the Pyramid of the Sun. I had intended to make my own way there but I was told it wasn’t safe and it is better to join a tour. Once I joined the other tour members, we headed out of the city. I got to see all the northern suburbs of Mexico City and the crisscrossing cable cars that act as transport over the rolling hills of the giant city.

The jaguar is one of the most revered animals in this part of Mexico. The giant Pyramid of the Sun dominating the skyline. To help with preservation, you can not walk to the top anymore.

Teotihucan was beautiful. It was intimidating to see the scale of the whole complex and the length of time it took to build. I am glad to see that lots of effort has been made to try and preserve the history of the complex. Unfortunately like the rest of Mexico City it is sinking and if you look carefully, you can see that some of the pyramids aren’t level anymore and you are not allowed to climb them anymore.

Statue of Pope John Paul the second to commemorate his first visit in 1979. The old cathedral. It is difficult to see the amount of sinking in the photo.

Next, we went for lunch and a mezcal tasting and of course the obligatory workshop. The mezcal tasting happened before lunch which was probably not a good idea as you could feel the effects even after only five shots of mezcal. For lunch I had my first experience of mole. It was pretty good and I was excited to try the real thing in Oaxaca.

The obviously sloping floor leading towards the lady’s chapel. A portrait of the conversion of local indians to catholicism.

The final stop on the tour was Basilica de Santa Maria de Guadalupe. It was so impressive and the stories of its findings and the stories that have happened since then are astounding. I am not religious at all and am not a fan of Catholicism either but I was in awe of the cathedrals both old and new. Unfortunately, the sinking of Mexico City was readily apparent. The sinking of some of the buildings could be measured in meters. As you walk around the interior of the old cathedral the slope in the floor was readily apparent.

The new catherdal built to allow worship in a safe setting.

The new cathedral is enormous. We got to see the end of a service as well as the integration of local customs and traditions into the religious service. What stood out for me was the thirty odd confessionals and how people were lining up to confess their sins to a priest. This is definitely a very catholic country. The last thing we got to see was the portrait of Lady Guadalope. The portrait was originally mounted in the old cathedral but after the attempt vandalism using dynamite and the severe sinking of the old Cathedral it was moved to the new one.

The lights that represent the candles lit by worshipers. The portrait of the Lady of Guadeloupe.

Straight after the tour, I caught my bus back to Toluca and some rest after a long day exploring. I was very glad that I made the detour to CDMX.