Dancing Saddle

It was finally time to leave Toluca. It wasn’t the greatest city but it was good enough for a good rest. In Guanjuato City, I was told about this beautiful town of Tepoztlan and a wonderful camping hostel. So, I plotted my route using google maps. Google soon failed the test though, as it guided me straight into a highway. It was a struggle getting my bike on the highway over the crash barrier but eventually I was able to lift it over. I followed the highway as it was going in the right direction but soon, I saw a toll gate. I can get away with riding on the highway but I am weary going through toll gates.

An essential start to everyday is a great cup of coffee to get you in the right mood. One of the many cows I encountered on Googles very interesting route for the day.

I quickly crossed the highway as I could see a trail there. On the other side there was a deep trench and a barbwire fence. I couldn’t make it across so had to recross the highway. Thankfully the trench was shallower and the barbwire was missing in spots. After that I could cross the highway using one of the cattle bridges.

The cattle bridge that needed to use to get to the otherside of the trenches and barbed wire. The only spot I was able to crawl through to get to the cattle bridge. Thankfully didn’t get poked.

At the next town. I stopped for some aqua fresas and then the big climb of the day started. It would peak at about 3600 meters. The view along the road was stunning. I kept having to stop to take photos. The road on the other hand was potholed to the point that there weren’t really two directions to the road just the smooth gaps in between the holes that everyone followed.

The whole ride from the start of the climb was just stunning. It wasn’t only the altitude that took my breath away. One of the many many potholes that covered this stretch of the route.

For every 100 meters I ascended, I had to slow down to adjust and make it easy to breath. I shot right past the gravel turn off without noticing but quickly turned around and got back on course. The last little bit was a walk but I was ecstatic when I got to the top. I celebrated with a quick orange and then began the crazy long descent.

Another stunning view. My elevation at the top of the climb. So far the highest I have cycled.

Riding down was exhausting on the hands cause of the constant need to break but wow it was stunning. I descended down into a wide steep valley. It was mostly farming land but it still was beautiful. Eventually I got onto some tarmac and ended up in a small town. I was going to wait to eat but I couldn’t resist a consommé. The next section was the weirdest stretch of riding. It was still downhill but through a forest but on the edge of a mountain with stunning views. It was back onto tarmac to get me down to Tepoztlan.

The farming valley after the steep climb and descent. The view from the side road was spectacular. At this point I had to descend 1000 meters in just over 10 kilometers.

I found the hostel and set up camp. It was such a great place. Interesting people, a beautiful view of the mountain on the other side of the valley and just an overall peaceful place. I decided to stay an extra night as I could get a chance to repair my sleeping pad. The second night poured with rain and during the night one of the many horses started grazing right by my tent I woke up to the send of something rubbing on the side of my tent and got such a fright I fell off my sleeping pad. Thankfully I could laugh at myself.

My tent all set up in the town of Tepoztlan. Using water to find the hole in my sleeping pad. If you look carefully you can see the bubbles.

The next morning it was still raining and all my cycling clothes were wet. I was in two minds about leaving but when it cleared, I decided to leave. Unfortunately, the day before, one of the other guests at the hostel was quite a horrible person. It was subtle but once you saw it you just knew. He totally spoiled a beautiful place. Luckily since then I haven’t met someone like that again.

Two of the four hostel cats that called this place home. The horse that woke me in the middle of the night.

I started late but it was worth it as I met a local man who ran a Pulque bar. He let me try some and it was delicious. It put a smile on my face and helped me forget the American asshole from the hostel. It was mostly an uneventful ride. Just before town it started to pour with rain and so myself and three other guys hid in an ambulance bay. When it finally stopped raining, I went to find some accommodation.

I forgot his name but he was kind enough to invite me in to try his home made pulque. The three gentlemen that I hid with during the downpour of rain.

The next few days were uneventful except for one scary moment. It started with another steep climb up but then started the even bigger descent. The road was bendy single lane in both directions with an occasional cement section on the side to help with water drainage. I came around a bend and there were two cars coming around another bend and behind them was an ambulance with its lights on but no siren. It started to over take the two cars and my only option was to swerve onto the cement section. Lock my breaks and hope for the best. Thankfully I have cycled long enough to catch the skid and correct my line.

There have not been a lot of other cyclist on this stretch of Mexico but it was great to meet at least one. The bit of concrete that I had to swerve onto to avoid the ambulance.

The last days ride into Oaxaca I unknowingly would get on the Vuelta de Santiago. And it was gorgeous. I had to climb to a crest but then the road turned to gravel and so begun the long descent down into the river valley and the town of Faustino G. Olivera. My brakes were barely working by then and I would need to replace the brake pads in Oaxaca. Faustino G. Olivera is a small town with some abandoned rail road tracks and carriages. I stopped at a tienda to grab some water and had the distinct pleasure of having a dog urinate on my bike. I took it as a sign of good luck.

The Vuelta de Santiago is just stunning.

The ride out was relatively easy. It followed the abandoned train tracks so the gradient was not too steep.  It was very narrow and I had a great time riding along. The gentle gradient with the running river made it a very peaceful experience. Once I got to the peak it was a very uneventful ride into Oaxaca and the end of the second leg of Mexico. As had become the norm I stumbled into the hostel with the raining pouring and in desperate need of a shower and some food.

The road and train tracks leading out of Faustino G. Olivera.