Dancing Saddle

My second attempt to leave Oaxaca was way more successful than the first. I stopped at the bike shop and he was quickly able to change out the spoke for a new one. I took the more direct route this time as the more scenic detour was not that scenic. When I reached my turn around point from the day before I celebrated before continuing the journey.

My second attempt to leave Oaxaca after repairing my spoke. Celebrating when I got to the same location as the previous day.

When I was in Oaxaca, I met a couple that owned a restaurant in Mazunte, they told me about a town called San Martin Tilcajete. This town was made famous by Jacobo and Maria Angeles. The economy of the town is supported by the manufacture of Alebrijes. These are brightly colored Mexican folk-art sculptures of fantastical creatures.

Arriving in the beautiful town of San Martin Tilcajete. Of course some beautiful murals were painted all around the town.

Some of the best in the world are made here. The are made of wood, natural paints and gold leaf and some of the art works can take up to six months to make. During the covid pandemic, Jacobo and Maria, ensured that the community was well taken care of, especially considering they are the main employers of the town.

Some of the Alebrijes on display at the workshop. A rattle snake in the process of being made from copalillo wood.

The town was beautiful when I arrived but the recent rain had brought out the midges and unfortunately there was no respite and I couldn’t quite enjoy my lemon and mezcal paleta. I then rode to their main factory to get taken on a tour.

Some of the beautiful alebrijes on display at the factory. These were made by the artisans and all the preoceeds from the sale go straight to them.

Their facility was beautiful and you could watch all the artisans at work. While I was waiting for an English guide to become available, I bumped into the lady that I spoke to two days before when she was working at their art gallery in Oaxaca. This just reminded me what a strong community they had built. The midges were still intense here and was very happy when I got to start the tour.

One of the many stunning commisioned alebrijes. Another beautiful mural on the side of the factory.

Liliana was a great guide. She showed me the different steps involved with the production of the Alebrijes. How they use natural ingredients to make the different color dyes and then how they mix the dyes to make even more colors. She showed me the different artisans and the time it takes to get to that level of skill. At the end she told me what my Alebrijes are, based on my year and month of birth, and their meanings. It turns out I am a fish and rabbit.

Another beautifu alebrijes on display. My spirit alebrijes are the fish and the rabbit symbolizing respect , gratitude, perfection, bossy, lovely.

What was most fascinating is that the movie Coco was based on the town and many of the characters were inspired on actual people that live in this town. It was so beautiful to see and experience it for real. Even the dog that was running around the facility is the son of the dog that inspired Diablo. Though the little bugger liked to nibble at my ankles.

Some of the murals really hit home hard. The son of Diablo that inspired the dog characte in Coco.

The gravel riding to the town of Ejutla was not that interesting so I jumped onto tarmac to get there a bit quicker. Checking into the hotel I got introduced to the horrible wonder that are chihuahuas. He was constantly barking and trying to bite my ankles. A walk around town to find dinner, I got to see an ambulance been washed out next to the town square. I have no idea why but I wasn’t going to ask.

The EMT cleaning out the ambulance next to the Plaza. I loved this photo of Ejulta

The day began ominously enough when a mom and daughter fell over while starting their scooter. I was able to help out before starting my own day. The profile of the days ride was gentle climbing for the first 40 km or so and then a long descent of 2000 meters for about 70 km to Puerto Escondido. I was stupidly optimistic and yet little did I know.

The town of Santiago Yogana where I had to take my crazy detour.

I decided to jump on the brand-new highway as I wanted to do the ride in one day. I had to do a detour when I saw the toll gate ahead. The village that I had to detour through started out fun but soon I was at a bottom of a deep valley. The river crossing was a new experience. I didn’t bother removing my shoes as it was a hot day and they would dry quickly. Google maps initially took me down a crazy path that was impossible to bike, but I could jump on the backpacker route. It was a long hot climb back up to the highway and I took a long break under the bridge.

The beautiful little river ccrossing that cooled me down. The crazy trail that google maps thought I could cycle.

Eventually I was back on the highway. One of the first things I noticed was a truck shedding planks of wood. I saw the first one fly off about 100 meters ahead of me. Over the next 10 kilometers I spotted another four planks lying in the road. There was probably more that I didn’t see. There was a village up ahead but decided not to go down there to get some food, as there was a steep descent down into the village and I did not feel like the climb back out.

Taking a long break under the main road bridge during the heat of the day. One of the many planks a truck was shedding ahead of me.

Soon after the village there was a road side shop where I got some food and water. It was now after 4 pm and I still had about 70 kilometers to go. The lady said it was about 10 kilometers to the peak and then downhill from there. She convinced me to keep going. It was a nervous ride to the top as I was already exhausted and I started eyeing possible camping spots if needed, but I knew once I got to the top I would be okay.

Taking another well needed break on the climb to the top of the climb. Meeting my spirit alebrijes at the road side stall.

Well, it turns out I was partially right. The descent once I got to the top was epic. For the next 40 kilometers or so it was a thrilling ride with lots of curves and stunning views. The occasional rain shower slowed me down but by not a lot. With about 25 kilometers to go it was almost dark and I put on my reflective vest and weak little lights. One obstacle I did not predict was the humidity. With about 25 kilometers to go, it was onto the backroads for a short cut to Puerto Escondido.

Taking shelter under a bridge during one of the heavier downpours . All the rain water shedding of the mountain.

As it was now totally dark, I was pushing hard to get to the hostel. This was a huge mistake. It was now rolling hills instead of flats and it took its toll. With about 4 kilometers to go I stopped to get some liquids and gel in me but I was still over heating and the cramping became unbearable. It took me a long time to get going again and my only option was walking. I couldn’t pedal on the flats or uphill as the cramping was intense.

Around sunet when I put on my reflective vest. Trying to take a photo of all the fireflies while suffering through the heat and humidity and the cramps.

I eventually got to the main road of Puerto Escondido and still had to walk every time it wasn’t downhill. At an Oxxo about one kilometer from the hostel I had to stop and got myself a coke and some paletas to try and cool myself down. I was breathing heavily and was constantly cramping. I couldn’t sit comfortably because if I did the cramps would start. A lady that saw me offered to get me some ice and that helped a bit. It had taken me nearly two hours to go the last four kilometers and I still hadn’t made the hostel. I finally got the energy to crawl to the hostel.

My recovery involved a lot of downtime and coffee and trying to hide from the heat and humidity.

After checking in I knew I wasn’t in the clear and stayed by the pool near the toilets. For about fifteen minutes I fought the nausea but I eventually lost the battle. It was a quick rush to the toilet and I made it just in time. I knew I wasn’t done and found a new spot by the pool but this time nearer to the toilet. I had to run to the toilet for a second time. I stayed by the pool for the next two hours as I didn’t want to go to bed and then have to disturb the rest of the dorm. Thankfully that was it for the evening but I was dealing with muscle cramps for the rest of the night and the next day. It also took a few days for me to recover fully and it took a lot of energy to do the smallest thing.