Dancing Saddle

It was back in Leon in for a few days before heading on to Apoyo for some free-diving. I decided to spend some time exploring all the art and museum around Leon. The highlight would most definitely be the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary. I also got a chance to meet up with my favorite Salsa partner.

Some of the beautiful art work in side the Basilica.

I didn’t do too much on my first day back in Leon. I was still buzzing from my time on Corn Island. It was difficult falling asleep in the hot dorms, so it was very enjoying lying awake in the cool mornings. I took the rest of the morning and early afternoon planning for Apoyo and further ahead. I backpacker I had met in El Salvador was also in the hostel and enjoyed that wonderful feeling when you bump into a fellow backpacker you have met before. That evening a group of us went out for roof top drinks and shared some stories of our times in Central America. The ice-cold beer was highly appreciated on such a scorching evening.

One of the prisoners being honored inside the Museum of Traditions and Legends. The lady in black freaked me the hell out.

The next day was culture day for me. The first stop was to see the Basilica but the roof top was closed until the afternoon. Instead, I went to the Museum of Traditions and Legends which is located in an old prison. It was mostly a museum about local traditions and legends from the local region. There were a few exhibits about the tragedies that occurred there while it was in use. Unfortunately, in Central America over the last fifty odd years there have been plenty of political killings and unrest.

Some of the displays of the traditions in the region.

The traditions and legends aspects of the museum were less tragic and I got to see how local festivals are celebrated throughout the region. The lady in black was very disconcerting. She looked too much like a movie prop that would move every time you look away. I made sure I kept a constant eye on her.

Some of the displays of torture that occured at the prison.

It was back to the Basilica and the roof top mirador. After heading to the ticket office, I went to the entrance and the narrow stair case to the top past the bells in the bell tower. Before you can access the roof, the guard made everyone remove their shoes. So, I had to walk the sunbaked roof bare foot.

The roof of the Basilica was gorgeous but the heat on the feet, not so much

It was a clear day with relatively little pollution and so the view was stunning. In every direction you could see a landmark of Leon. I did enjoy playing the game of the floor is lava. I had to stick mostly to the parts of the roof that was in shade along rails and the towers. There were a few times that I had to dash across the roof. Thankfully I was not the only one.

Just some of the views around Leon.

My last culture stop for the day was the Ortiz Gurdian Foundation Art Center. It was a good combination of post-colonial and modern art, with a few retrospectives on recent history. I thoroughly enjoyed walking around looking at all the paintings, sculptures and exhibits. One exhibit that I found very interesting was of the statue of Anastasio Somoza Debayle. He was ousted as president during the Nicaraguan Revolution. They had the ripped down statue on display there. He was one of many cruel dictators throughout history that goes on till this day.

Some of the artwork on display at the art gallery. The fallen statute of Debayle and his horse.

I had a credit with one of the shuttle companies and wouldn’t have much chance after this to redeem it. Thus, I decided to grab a shuttle to near Apoyo and then cycle the rest of the way. It was a brutally hot and humid day. I pushed my bike to a tienda where I transitioned my bike to cycling mode. It took longer than expected and I was drenched in sweat.

The shuttle dropped me about 15 kilometers from Apoyo. I had to change into cycling clothes and repack my gear and was instantly drenched in sweat.

I drank some fluids, donned some sunscreen and set off. It was a gentle uphill most of the way and then a steep descent into Lake Apoyo. I was dreading the return ride and then heading to Granada. I decided to spoil myself with the accommodation with a stunning view of the lake. I seriously felt like I needed a change of pace. And three days spent in what amounted to a tiny village and free diving was very much needed.

The downhill into Apoyo. The spot at the Finca where I could relax and look over Lake Apoyo.

It wasn’t the best weather on my first day there, but I was able to go visit the dive shop which was closed that day and then find a local restaurant to get some food and then head back to the Finca. When the wind died down a little, I was able to a little kayaking on the lake. The lake is relatively small but, in every direction, there are stunning views of the surrounding cliffs. I just sat there watching the setting sun and the distance thunderstorm in awe of where I was.

Getting ready to go out for a kayak on the lake.

The next day it was time to freedive. The atmosphere and positivity at the dive shop was addictive. Yann was our dive master for the day. We did some yoga and stretching and my body really needed it after all the cycling over the last year. The third diver was doing her Wave 2. I had a wonderful time and the positivity continued in the water. I was able to beat my Personal Best and got down to 28 meters. I found it easy and was looking forward to getting down to 30 meters the next day. Back at the dive shop we had a great time chatting with other divers.

Freediving down to 30 meters. An amazing time.

The next day it was back at the dive shop. I was able to play some chess with the owner and could see why the dive shop had such a great atmosphere. I had the same dive partner but different dive master. To be honest I didn’t enjoy the way he handled the diving. It didn’t really suite my style but I was still able to get down to 30 meters which was my goal. There was a moment there where I considered staying on to do the masters/ wave 3. It would have been the perfect place to do it but the priority was the journey and the bike.

The owner challenged me to some chess and he totally destroyed me. Bittersweet feeling of getting down to 30 meters but not being easy.

It was with a heavy heart that I departed and went onwards to Granada. It was hot, humid and steep and involved lots of pushing to get up the hill. At the top, I bumped into some other divers and we arranged to meet up in Granada for coffee and brunch/lunch. This was pretty much the peak of Granada for me. The hostel was a failure with loud music and little atmosphere. Granada itself was way too much of a tourist city. The touts constantly offering tours and less savory activities took its toll on me and I just wanted to get out of there. Thankfully I was soon on my way and heading to the beautiful ocean and some surfing.

The floating stone that I found while freediving. On my last day. there was a perfect calm.