Dancing Saddle

I arrived back in Arequipa having booked a place in a different hostel. The previous one didn’t feel homely. Thankfully this one felt so much more welcoming and as a bonus it had a beautiful roof top breakfast bar. After taking a day off just to decompress, I started working on all the things I need to do to make sure the gear side of things were well prepared. The hope was that the mental side would follow.

Breakfast view from my new hostel.

While exploring the city I came across a stunning café, run by a lovely couple, called Isidro Comedor. The spot where I randomly sat down had some stonework with the same Buddhist symbol that I had as a tattoo. Sometimes the universe can give you a sign. That day it gave me some inspiration and hope for what was supposed to come next.

The Buddhist symbol for journey that gave me a moment of inspiration. And an idea for a possible side quest.

During my wait, I explored some of the markets and ate lots of street food. Peru cuisine is a step above what had come before. I even did a little hostel cooking with some fresh food I bought and realized how much I was craving it.

Shopping, eating and browsing around Mercado San Camilo.

My main goal was to sort out my sleeping pad. This unfortunately involved having to buy an iron as the hostel didn’t have one. I was lucky to find a cheap one and did my best to patch the holes. It was definitely a botched job, but it would have to do. The iron was donated to the hostel in exchange for water.

My long suffering sleeping pad getting a few more patches. Watching the sunset over Arequipa.

I did a couple of more upgrades with a puffy jacket, a fully charged sim card and extra cash to make sure I didn’t run out. I was even a little whimsical with a Santa hat. And then the second departure day was upon me. This time I pushed straight through to Characato and had lunch in the plaza. Timing was on my side and when I arrived in town a friend of mine had left a very uplifting voice note. I planned to use it as motivation for the next stint.

My new puffy that would hopefully keep me much warmer in the high altitudes and of course my Christmas hot for Christmas day.

I then pushed on to Pisco and stopped at the same little tienda and the same friendly lady. I suspect she could tell straight away that I was struggling and she probably knew just as well as I did that I would be turning around after tonight. I appreciated her kindness and concern.

On the road near Pisco.

I got back to the same camping spot and it felt so surreal to be camping in the same place with the same view of Misti. The new puffy kept me much warmer and I stayed out much later than on the previous attempt. My mind racing from one thought to the next. The one consistent thread was the level of doubt that I was experiencing in that moment. Before I went to bed I already knew what my decision would be.

My final time camping on this journey.

The next morning, I woke up slowly after a poor night’s sleep. I reluctantly made my coffee and breakfast, savoring each step of my now well-established morning routine. I carefully struck down my tent and deflated my patched up sleeping pad. Cycling clothes back on, camp site checked for any trash, I put on my helmet and headed back to Arequipa with a heavy heart. I knew was done and nothing right now could keep me going. It was all downhill both figurately and literally back to the same hostel. When I arrived, it was also the same receptionist when I left. I had already told her it would be a bad sign if I returned.

Arequipa putting on a stunning last few daysfor me. And some very wise words.

The next couple of days I felt much lighter because the decision had been made but also sadness knowing that things had come to an end. I felt more like a tourist now that there was no more riding to do. It was also time to book flights back home. My wonderful sister and my ever-resourceful friend Pravina helped me get through the process and the mental struggle.

I spoiled myself with some delicious beer and food. San Fransico Church

On my last night, I took a stroll down to Plaza de Armas and sat on the Basilica stairs watching the Christmas festivities, trying to take it all in. I was surrounded by lights, color and music that for a fleeting moment put a smile on my face. Even at this point I was having doubts about my decision. The sadness of something coming to an end can truly overwhelm any other emotion. I lingered as long as I could but I knew it was time to go. With a heavy heart and reluctant steps, I dragged myself back to the hostel.

Some cotton candy to life the spirits. Christmas spirit on the plaza on my last night in Arequipa.

That night I barely slept as I had to get up early to catch the first of many flights. Just before 6 am I was up and ready to go. Outside while waiting for the taxi to arrive, a stray dog decided it was the opportune time to urinate on my bike box. I am not sure if this was a sign and if it was, what it meant.

A little urine on my bike box to say goodbye.